Here’s another older tutorial I’ve put together ~ Hope it helps!
Let’s Rivet Earrings ~
Here are my 6 components to decide how to put together ~ I’ve chosen to start with these ~
Here are a few ideas!
Now that I’ve decided how I want to put them together….
I texture or shape my pieces
Hammered oval washers ~
Once you have the look you like ~
put the two pieces back together & hold it where you want it to connect
The butterflies come with a pre drilled hole so you can really just make a centered hole on the component where you want to connect it.
If you’re trying to connect bracelet links and need to be precise, pick up your hole punch pliers and put the punch exactly where you want the hole (you will be holding both pieces together) Then squeeze slightly (don’t punch a hole just yet)…just squeeze enough to put an indent in the top and bottom piece~ This will be your mark to a correctly placed rivet.
Remove the pliers (without creating the hole) and then put the hole in each piece separately ~ They will be perfectly aligned and it will save on wear and tear of you hole punch pliers ~
Go ahead and repeat for the other piece of the set ~
If you have any burrs from the hole punch, you can file them off now using files, Dremel or flex shaft ~
Find a hard surface to work on…Now you can put your rivet in through both pieces to be cold connected ~
you can rivet it with the nail head on top or on the bottom ~ I do it both ways…just depends how curvy my pieces are…sometimes it’s easier the reverse way~
Cut your rivet with flush cutters to 1/16″ or 1.5mm above the joined pieces…
(For this to work ~the rivet must be flat on top..not pointed)
The rivet should fit snug ~ if you use a larger hole punch, your rivet will bend and not set properly & I promise you will be frustrated
If you use a smaller hole punch, you will be filing the hole and wasting precious time ~
Seriously, spend the $16 on my hole punch….you will be happy you did! I promise you will use these all the time for other jewelry designing projects! (You can also use them as a hole punch in your earring cards!)
Now that you have your rivet trimmed flush and snug, grab your hammer…usually I use the riveting hammer ~ flat end…but I have great success with my chasing hammer and embossing hammer – round end too ~ test a few on scrap and see what gets you good results.
With very light taps, rotate your pieces in a circular motion as you tap ~ this gives even pressure on all sides of the rivet..which will result in a nice round even rivet head. As you get better at it, you can just hit around the rivet…but this worked for me when I was getting started…
If you don’t have these, you can try a regular hammer…but they are so heavy you need to tap very lightly ~
If your rivet bends before it is nicely set ~ there are a few reasons ~
Rivet was left too long,–look at your ruler and figure out how long 1/16″ or 1.5mm is
Hammered to hard…next time take baby taps…you will need around 12 light taps to set it
Used a larger hole punch…buy my hole punch! 🙂
Now that you’re rivet is set, feel both sides…are they smooth and not jaggy…
if they aren’t smooth…just lightly tap that out ~
WOO HOO! You did it~ You’ve riveted…. Now go back and rivet the other pieces ~
At this time you can shine them up or oxidize them…Just dip them in your favorite oxidizing solution
(sorry details for this are for another tutorial)
~ til as dark as you like and rinse well in water ~
Take a piece of 00 steel wool and create shiny highlights on the surface by rubbing in a circular motion ~ front and back
You can add renaissance wax to help slow the oxidizng, but my copper/brass cleaning pads really work great and bring back a shine very quickly…very much like silver!
Once done, add holes on the top of your pieces to connect your ear wires ~ (using your very useful 1.5mm hole punch pliers!)
I love my new solid copper ear wires …they come oxidized but shiny too ~ so no prep…the one thing I notice is that the loop right below the 3 bead cluster is sometimes too small ~ If you grab the cluster to bend, you could easily snap it off ~ using your round nose pliers, bend the wire just below the cluster to open that space up a bit…then slide the wider part of the round nose pliers in that space and curve it a bit wider~
Now add the charm to your earring ~ place the front of the piece through the ear wire and slide around to dangle freely ~ close the hole with out pressing on the cluster. You can add color by just adding beads, or other fun charms….Here I added Denim Lapis bead charms ~ I love this combo! I could easily have placed another hole at the bottom of the butterfly and dropped the bead from here ~
Very likely to sell or make someone very happy to receive! Think I’ll go put these in 😉 Btw..holes in earring cards were made with my hole punch pliers..lol!
Go ahead and repeat this process for the other pieces of the set ~ you can use them as is…bend them, cut them texture them…add chain (using your very handy 1.5mm hole punch~ lol) add wire wrapped beads…make it your own style! You will have great success with this ~ It will open a whole new world of connection possibilities ~
The rivet options are
1/4″ or 1/2″ Rivets in Copper/Brass or Sterling Silver
All of these items and tools are available on my Etsy site! My Components Here Metal Blanks Here Assorted Metalworking tools Here DIY Kits Here
If you order any of my riveting tutorials,
I will email you this riveting tutorial free with extra tips that work for me!
Have fun and be creative ~ Try this design or create your own combination! Now get riveting 🙂 It’s easy!
One of the things we love here on the farm is Maple Syrup from our farm maple trees. This weekend Tim & I tapped the trees in anticipation for the sap run! Sap run entails above freezing days with freezing or colder nights. This temperature fluctuation pressures the sap to rise in the trees when it’s warmer, getting ready to feed the buds that will grow into leaves and seeds. When it rises, it drips through the taps into our milk jugs attached to the trees.
We collect about 10 gallens a day or more…it takes 40 gallons of sap to make a gallon of syrup. It’s a daily process but gets me outside everyday collecting and checking out the wildlife & I drop some grains off for the deer and turkey too! This keeps my mind off the anticipation of Spring…which takes so long to really develop here in North Central Pennsylvania..by the time were done, it’s here….
Enjoy our Maple season, I’ll be adding more about it and pictures as the jugs begin to fill and we cook it down on my studio wood stove.
Thefinal product!
Maple Syrup 🙂
The process of tapping maple trees, collecting the sap, and making maple syrup (one of the many uses of maple sap) is actually quite simple. It does, however, take some time and a willingness to get outdoors and experience this miracle of nature (literally tapping into Mother Nature). Here is a great site to get you started if you want to try. http://www.tapmytrees.com/
We actually use the plastic spiles and tubes into milk jugs. Less debris in the sap and less spillage. We were very happy with them from www.oldcobblersfarm.com or here is their ebay link.
Measure Ups – Handmade Textured & Dyed Leather bound – 60″ Tailors Retractable Measuring Tape with inch/mm increments. Perfect and pretty to keep by your side for measuring. I use mine practically everyday and made it a year ago and still functioning and the leather is getting a nice soft sheen from the natural oils in your hands. I finally decided to offer them as a gift item! They measure approx 3″ wide and 3/4″ deep. I’ve added a copper pull tab to keep inline with it’s rustic feel.
The Tailors Tape is a simple but essential tool for sewing, crafts, and other general purposes; it never hurts to have an extra one handy as they are used so frequently. This particular unit features non-stretch, soft and flexible fiberglass fabric tape with contrasting increments in red. The vivid red color of the measurements provides a great contrast against the white background to ensure that you’re getting the most accurate measurement possible. Push the button to retract the tape back into it’s case. Measurements are in inches on one side and uses the metric system on the other.
My designs are all about textures. You’ll find through out my work vibrant & beautiful textures. I’ve included a guide to help you make your jewelry buying easier! Typically we can adjust a designs texture. This would fall into a custom order categor. You would just need to connect with us for what you would like. Many would not incur an additional cost. So don’t hesitate to message us! I’m working on a few new textures ~ Stop back soon!
ATHENA (Greek) – Goddess of war and wisdom and domestic crafts. Plato believed her name meant “mind of God” whilst others suggest it comes an ancient word meaning “sharp.” Both these words point to Athena’s great intellectual ability to see the true nature of a situation and to develop successful strategies.
ARIES While not a goddess , it’s the first Astrological sign and just seemed to fit this texture. The symbol of the ram is based on the Chrysomallus, the flying ram that provided the Golden Fleece.
EOS (Greek) – A sunny natured Goddess whose name means dawn. A wonderful texture – a favorite!
GAIA (Greek) – Goddess of the Earth and prophecy. She is the primordial mother and a personification of Mother Earth. She gave birth to the Titans.
OSTARA (Germanic) – The spring Goddess whose name is linked to the East and the dawn. The early Christians took her fertility symbols of eggs and hares and incorporated them into the Easter celebrations.
VENUS (Roman) – Goddess and love and beauty. Her Goddess name has become synonymous with her role as the woman who all men desire.
We now offer 8 gauge-24 gauge round raw wire in copper & brass.
No coatings & takes patina / oxidizers nicely!
Our round wire is medium hard. Easy to work with right away or you can anneal
for a much softer & more pliable.
I’m forever trying to figure out the right gauge/width wire for different projects I’m working on.
I found this great Gauge/Project Table & thought it may help you as well!
Wire Cheat Sheet
Wire Size
Diameter in Millimeters
What It’s Good For Making:
8 gauge
3.25 mm
thick jump rings
rings
neck rings
bangle bracelets
buckles
10 gauge
2.57 mm
clasps
thick jump rings
neck rings
bangle bracelets
rings
12 gauge
2.03 mm
clasps
chunky jump rings
neck rings
bangle bracelets
substantial formed links
eye pins for beads with very large holes
14 gauge
1.65 mm
clasps
thick jump rings
chain maille jewellery
neck rings
bangle bracelets
substantial formed links
eye pins for beads with very large holes
16 gauge
1.3 mm
clasps
thick jump rings
chain maille jewellery
neck rings
bangle bracelets
substantial formed links
eye pins for beads with large holes
18 gauge
1.0 mm
more delicate clasps
jump rings
formed links
eye pins, head pins
wire-wrapping
ear-wires (though 20 gauge is more common)
fits through most bead holes
20 gauge
0.8 mm
jump rings
delicate formed links
eye pins
head pins
wire-wrapped links
split-rings
earwires
fits through most bead holes
21 gauge
0.75 mm
many people buy this odd size gauge specifically for making earwires
22 gauge
0.65 mm
wire-wrapping
wire-wrapped head-pins
wire-wrapped eye-pins
fits through almost all bead holes
24 gauge
0.5 mm
standard size for wire-wrapped bead links and head pins
wire-wrapping
fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge fits through almost all of these.
26 gauge
0.4 mm
for wire crochet
wire-wrapped bead links and head pins
wire-wrapping
fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge should fit through all of these.
Another older tutorial…for patina lovers to try at home! Its fun!
This Sapphire Patina is just so beautiful and it’s something all of you
can try at home with terrific results!
Here’s the project:
Sapphire Starry Night Earrings Tutorial
Materials you’ll need:
2 Brass Rectangle Charms
2 Ear wires or 20ga wire
2 Brass stars or small charms
Tools you’ll need:
1.5mm hole punch (if no holes in brass charms)
Wood Dapping Block & Hammer ( if shaping your metal)
Fine steel wool or scotchbrite (outside scrubby of sponge will work)
Spray bottle of water
Coarse salt
Ammonia – household
Plastic container with lid
2 small round flat stones
Metal Aerosol Sealant
Getting Started:
Setting up the patina station~
Set up your plastic container in a well ventilated area ~ the lid will be on for most of this procedure, but ammonia has a very strong odor…so outside in a covered area is a good place. I’ve used a plastic old deli meat container… large enough to place a few pieces in…(use a container that you can have specifically for this project and not for future food) ~ Plastic gloves are a good idea too!
Old Deli meat container…but any plastic container with lid will work ~
Lay two round flat stones on bottom of container and pour in just a bit of Ammonia …do not cover the stones with ammonia…just enough to cover the bottom of the container. Put the lid on for now.
Here’s the concept for the stones…soon the metal charms will rest on top~
Preparing the brass:
Texture the two brass rectangles anyway you like. The pieces pictured here are pre-hammered….Shaping the metal before you patina, is a good idea….it’s possible to flake off the patina if you bend the metal afterwards.
Then I used my wooden dapping block to shape…you can also accomplish this on a soft piece of pine and tapping lightly with the round end of the hammer…(hitting the back side will curve the charms outward and hitting on the front side will curve them inwards)
Here I’m curving inward ~Take your brass pieces and scrub them (without water) with your scrubby, scotch brite/steel wool or brass brush ..this will bring a shine to your pieces….they are now ready to be patina’ed.
Patina Process:
Spray the shiny face side of each piece with with water to wet the surface. While not touching the shiny side with your fingers,(use plyers or hold the sides) place your brass charms on the stones in the plastic container face side up.
Spritz cleaned metal pieces with water
Carefully place brass pieces face side up on stones or small plastic cups (crystal lite cups upside down) You can use anything not porous to place the components on ~
Sprinkle coarse salt on the brass components…it’s ok if some of the salt spills into the ammonia…it won’t affect the outcome…just don’t let the brass piece fall in….if it does…just rinse, place on stone & re-sprinke the salt.
How much salt on the metal is a personal preference. I try to give an even coat…so the pieces match for earrings…but if making pendants experiment with different amounts or even try smaller grain table salt..I like the coarse salt because it makes a much bigger pock mark.
Place the lid back on the plastic container and wait around 24 hours…the fumes from the ammonia work with the salt and brass….you can peek occasionally… When you like the color it’s time for the next step ~ Here are the pieces ready to be rinsed! Look at that blue! Gorgeous!
With plastic gloves or plyers pull out the salt covered pieces and rinse off salt in water ~
Rinsing the salt off~
Remove from water and lightly dry with a paper towel….let sit til dry for an hour or so ~
Brass charms drying~ So pretty with some of the brass showing through~
Protecting the Finish:
From here you can see the beautiful variation dark and light blue tones and bits of brass peeking through…to me this is just perfect! Now I’m ready to seal…. You can pick up an inexpensive lacquer at the hardware store…or you may have one in the workshop.
(Other sealants: Permalac, Sculpt Noveau Color Guard, Krylon (metal sealants – I prefer aerosol -Matte for patina)
I use a paper plate, but you could use a paper towel or newspaper….holding the spray lacquer at least 12″ away, lightly spray your pieces evenly….A VERY LIGHT COAT….Don’t saturate…or you’ll loose the wonderful deep tone…let dry for 20 minutes and spray again 2 more times at 20 min intervals ~(a total of 3 times) The spray lacquer will help preserve the blue patina ~
Brass charms sprayed with Lacquer and drying ~
Finishing things up:
If your charms don’t already have a hole you can add one now or even before you start the patina process. I like to use a 1.5mm hole punch to make a big enough hole for the earring to swing easily from the ear wire.
Center the punch and gently squeeze ~
Attach your ear wire and charm to both pieces and you are ready to go!
This is a super fun project and really easy to accomplish great results!
Add ear wires and charms or beads ~
TaDa! You have an amazing pair of artisan earrings and you did it yourself!
Here’s a starter kit to make an earring set & necklace.
2 Brass Blanks (round or square- you must texture your own) 2 Star Charms
2 Antique Brass Ear Wires Coarse Salt
whatever you call it…it’s just beautiful here in Northern Central Pennsylvania. Was excited to get some shots of my daughter and fiance for her engagement pictures
I’ve been busy designing some fall inspired jewelry!
The crispy taste of Autumn ~ My Favorite Recipes!
Pumpkin Pie Muffins
1 15 oz can pumpkin puree
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup evaporated milk
2/3 cup all purpose flour
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12 cup muffin tin with silicone liners, foil liners sprayed with cooking spray or just spray the cups with cooking spray. Either of these three methods will make it easy to take the cupcake out after it’s cooked. Paper liners make it difficult to remove the cupcakes.
Mix the pumpkin, sugar, brown sugar, eggs, vanilla extract and milk. Add the flour, pumpkin spice, salt, baking powder and baking soda to the mixture. Fill each muffin cup with 1/3 cup of the mixture. Bake for twenty minutes and let cool for twenty minutes. Remove cupcakes from pan and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes. Top with whipped cream and sprinkle more pumpkin pie spice on top and serve. Makes 12 cupcakes.
Hidden Hill Farm Hot Spiced Cider
1 gallon good cider (if you can find local pressed, it’s so much better)
1/8c brown sugar
1/4-1/2c orange juice or one orange sliced
1/2t ground cloves
1/2t ground nutmeg
1/2t pumpkin pie spice
10-13″ of cinnamon sticks or 1 t ground
Heat to boil and serve – we served Kraken Black spiced rum on the side with shot glass for the adults Just delicious…and needless to say, it was gone early! This is an easy bring along for your parties!
Grammercy Tavern Gingerbread
1 cup oatmeal stout or Guinness Stout or be creative and use your favorite Pumpkin Ale
1 cup dark molasses (not blackstrap)
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch of ground cardamom
3 large eggs
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup vegetable oil
Confectioners sugar for dusting
Preheat oven to 350°F. Generously butter bundt pan and dust with flour, knocking out excess.
Bring stout and molasses to a boil in a large saucepan and remove from heat. Whisk in baking soda, then cool to room temperature.
Sift together flour, baking powder, and spices in a large bowl. Whisk together eggs and sugars. Whisk in oil, then molasses mixture. Add to flour mixture and whisk until just combined.
Pour batter into bundt pan and rap pan sharply on counter to eliminate air bubbles. Bake in middle of oven until a tester comes out with just a few moist crumbs adhering, about 50 minutes. Cool cake in pan on a rack 5 minutes. Turn out onto rack and cool completely.
Serve cake, dusted with confectioners sugar, with whipped cream.
Grammercy Tavern is a famous restaurant in NYC and this shared recipe is just amazing! It’s by far the best Gingerbread Cake I’ve ever had or made. It’s heavy, moist and has this deep rich flavor that entices you keep taking bites. You could serve it with a lemon sauce but I think its great with a fresh whipped cream.
